Going (Home?)

This will be my last post on this blog.  I sincerely thank my readers who have stuck with me through the end. Knowing you care about what I have to report has been a huge motivator for me throughout the year.

I also believe with all my heart that the positive thoughts you sent my way from all corners of the globe have kept me safe and well. They kept me going through the multiple bouts of food poisoning and infections, sweltering treks through jungles, mountains, desert, plains, and taiga, physical assault and harassment, civil unrest, uncountable number of treturous  highways, rivers, and flight paths, and moments of severe loneliness, confusion, and anxiety. Thank you!

While the thoughts and love you sent me from afar were undeniably important, my real guardian angels were the people I stayed with on this journey. These are people who, despite not knowing me and having no reason to trust me, opened up their homes and lives for me to experience.

I have always had confidence in the innate goodness of humanity. People often mocked my optimism when I was little, telling me that I would eventually learn that there is very little good in human nature. The people I meet continue to prove them wrong. Yes, we are all susceptible to succumbing to hatred, violence, jealousy, egotism, and greed (what Buddhists refer to as kleshas). These are innate to the human experience: in the evolutionary order they helped us survive when it was every man for his own.

But more important than these behaviors we deem socially unacceptable in abstract is the understanding of the power of positive relationships. It is relationships-alliances if you will-that allow us not just to survive, but to thrive. They bring purpose and happiness to our lives and they help shape our identity. They also have the power to help us overcome patterns of behavior that are driven by these kleshas.

I have met many people this year. And not every interaction I have had has been nice. But for every person I have met who has tried to hurt me out of entitlement, hatred, or greed there have been a hundred people who sought to develop positive relationships with me, no matter how short-lived they might be.

This is the subthesis of my project: despite a seemingly insurmountable number of obstacles and forms of oppression, the people who are the happiest and most empowered are the ones who have created a solid network of positive relationships. That is why the indigenous movement is so powerful; it re-establishes a shared identity amongst people who have been torn apart over the last few hundred years through genocide, acculturation, assimilation, and capitalism. It reminds people of their shared history and dependence on their environments. It also helps people understand and stand up for their rights not just as individuals, but as part of a larger community.

I have also come away from this project with a more nuanced understanding of what it means to have a home and how intertwined one’s home and identity are. An Orang Ulu who grew up in his grandmother’s longhouse along the Baram River, a Matses who spent her childhood chewing sugarcane and fishing with her aunts on the Rio Galvez, a Kara who used to shepherd his livestock across the wooded plains of the lower-Omo Valley, and a Khanty who knows the life of a forest by the scent of the air and tracks on the ground all have different definitions of home, relationships, and identities. Their unique environments shaped their diets, the music they compose, the way they build, and the way they understand the cosmos. Their land, and the people they share it with, define them. Take it away, and what do you have?

Even the people I met who had relocated into resettlement areas and cities still consider their customary land as their true home. For them, a unit in a concrete urban block could never be a replacement. Its privatized and partitioned architecture lacks both the cultural elements and access to the life-giving resources that people depend on, both for their spiritual and physical wellbeing.

Urbanization is inevitable, and considering how this physical and cultural shift will impact the wellbeing of our world’s indigenous communities is critical. Natural and man-made disasters, the deterioration of traditional livelihoods, dispossession from customary land, and the prospect of better opportunities in cities will continue to drive indigenous peoples’ into urban areas. Today, one billion people live in slums and by 2030, with the resettlement of both indigenous and refugee populations, this figure will have doubled. Knowing this, three big questions remain for me:

How will we ensure that these new urban dwellers have access to decent and affordable housing?

How can our world’s rich cultural fabric, which was created by and is arguably inseparable from rural environments, be preserved and celebrated in these new spaces?

Can these urban frontiers ever be true homes for our indigenous communities and, similarly, who will they become as people disconnected from their land?

I suppose I have the rest of my life to find out.

 

Unsung Heroines

This post is dedicated to the women I came to know during my fellowship, to highlight their strengths and commemorate their (often trivialized) struggle.

Sexism and rigid gender roles exist in almost all societies and indigenous communities are no exception. In every community I spent time in this year, women are responsible for child rearing, cooking, cleaning, collecting water, taking care of their husbands and elders, and farming. In many cases, when men — because of alcoholism or activism — have stopped supporting their families entirely, women must also take on an additional role as breadwinners.

Because women are first and foremost socialized to be the caretakers of their families, they have much less flexibility than men to be engaged in any type of activism. This — compounded by sexist notions of female inferiority, ignorance, and docility — can stifle women’s voices in the the indigenous rights movement. In the communities that are actively fighting for their rights, many men told me that they felt alone in their battle, unsupported by their women. I saw a completely different reality.

I saw women who took on both burdens: supporting their men in the struggle for state recognition, political rights, and land titles as well as raising the next generation of culturally-whole people. I believe that raising and providing for the next generation is as important, if not more important than waving banners and soliciting donations. I hope these profiles show you why:

Lynn and Lily (Kayan, Sarawak): single mothers from upriver who were both working full-time at my guesthouse in Miri in order to ensure their children would have good futures. Their biggest supporters were their mothers, who helped with childcare while they were at work.

Imelda, Amy, and Esther (Tering, Sarawak): I never saw any of them give a speech or take credit for organizing their land-rights case. But they came to every event, networked with others in their community to garner interest in and support for their tribe’s legacy, and inspired their children to grow up as Tering.

Maria and her sisters (Penan, Sarawak): While her husband and chief, Panai, left to represent the Penan at various protests and conferences in Kuala Lumpur, Maria and her sisters maintained their households, farms, and forests, were leaders in their church and helped mediate conflicts between community members. Their daughters were also stepping up as leaders; when I visited Ba’Abang, all of them were living in the nearby town or on the coast to study. Comparatively, the boys had a much lower rate of attendance in school.

Niloh (Iban, Sarawak): A legal advocate in Kuching, she is a vocal supporter of Orang Ulu all over Sarawak. When I visited her, she was working on several dozen land-rights cases and knew everything about the state’s political history and current forms of corruption. In addition to being a full-time and paid activist, she is a dedicated wife, mother, and grandmother.

Lucy (Kelabit, Sarawak): an estate planner and former school principal in Bario, she also runs a homestay on the edge of the town to share a piece of Kelabit culture with visitors. She is highly intellectual and believes that justice and cultural preservation can come only through the empowerment that education cultivates. As a principal, she worked tirelessly to create incentives for remote Penan and Kelabit families to send their children to Bario for school.

Sue (Penan, Sarawak): a woman about my age who was born in Batu Bungan, the designated resettlement area for the Penan who were displaced when Mulu National Park was founded. Sue works at the guesthouse on the edge of the park to support her mother and save for her future. She dreams of moving to the city but doubts that she will ever have the money to fly there.

Lun (Kenyah, Sarawak): An old woman living in the Sungai Asap resettlement area who has fought and survived more than fifty years of oppression. In the 1980s she and the other women in their village took over the road blockades when their husbands were arrested, to stop the illegal logging of their forests. Again in the 1990s, she protested and blockaded the companies that had come to build Bakun Dam. This time the company won and she moved with the rest of her village to Asap. Today she lives alone in her unit of the longhouse, weaving baskets and playing with children on the longhouse veranda.

Caroline (Kenya, Sarawak): A vocal activist and feminist, she is one of the few women in the movement for Orang Ulu rights who has been allowed onto the stage alongside men. She works with Save Rivers and often speaks at conferences, particularly trying to engage women more directly in the struggle for environmental justice.

Emerenciana (Quechua, Peru): A wife, mother, farmer, and entrepreneur living on the remote Amantani Island of Lake Titicaca. Two years ago she established contacts with a mainland agency and got her family’s house remodeled to provide space for guests. Her initiative and hospitality has made her a favorite for tour companies who send clients to the island for a two-day immersive homestay experience and has ensured her family’s longterm economic security.

Maria and Sylvia (Matsés, Peru): my host mother and sister whose physical strength and agility impressed me greatly. While Matsés traditions of polygamy and serving the patriarch still hold true, many jobs that women are typically barred from in other societies are split equally in San Juan. Maria and Sylvia would fish, cook, wash, collect water, weed and harvest heavy loads of yucca and plantain, and care for the children in their family. They were also unbeatable volleyball players.

Khasa Desta (Irob, Ethiopia): because her husband worked as a security guard in Geblen (most men are farmers and herders and do not work for wages), Khasa Desta took on the extra role of herding their small flock. While I was there, the village was busy preparing the soil for the rainy season and Khasa Desta spent her days in the hot sun, lifting bowls of earth and rocks to build terraces. Then she would walk thirty minutes to collect water, gather the herd, and return to cook for her husband and son. As domestic workers and cultivators of the land, women in rural Ethiopia have a much more physically demanding role than men do.

Mazha (Ahmaric, Ethiopia): a young woman from a nearby city who oversaw the soil and water conservation projects in Geblen. She was well-educated but incredibly humble and I was so impressed with her ability to insert herself into a community that continues to undervalue women’s authority and experience. She was the only woman on a leadership team that was trying to revitalize Geblen’s soils so that farmers can grow enough to feed themselves.

Agalo (Ari, Ethiopia): a single mother of five and a magnet for her hillside community, she took care of family and neighbors all day. An incredibly gentle and regal soul, she was such an evident role model for her daughters and sons. Under her leadership, they went to school daily and worked hard on in the fields and around the house. Despite the stress of supporting and raising a family alone, I never saw her without a smile.

Duka (Hamar, Ethiopia): a mother of five and first wife of a charismatic and popular Sago, she went through a phase of emotional turmoil when he decided to take a younger and more beautiful woman as his second wife. Today, Duka appears much tougher because of it. Perhaps needing to assert her authority, she showed great charisma, competence, and independence when I stayed with her.

Chowli (Kara, Ethiopia): made a widow after her husband was killed by a neighboring tribe and handicapped by a spine injury from her childhood, she has had to become extremely resourceful in a community, which tourism has rendered highly competitive and apathetic. She is the mother of two young children, who spend most of their time in the plains to shepherd the family’s small herd. Chowli has been lucky to host nearly all of the foreign researchers and journalists who have visited the Kara. Her financial sense makes her neighbors, especially the young men, resentful. But unlike them, she spends her money wisely, choosing to save for a new roof for her home and for her childrens’ education instead of on alcohol and motorbikes.

Katya and Ira (Khanty-Mansi, Russia): the women of the Aipin Clan, they play a critical role in supporting their families and preserving their lands and cultures. Although the Aipin men are more engaged in activism and protest against the companies invading their land, they are also unemployed and some enjoy their liquor. To continue living in both the settlements and the towns, benefiting from both urban and forest resources, their families must have a steady income. It is these women who simultaneously bring in the bread and care for their men and children.

Rima, Marina, and Lena (Khanty, Russia): three incredible women living in Kazim, a traditional Khanty village in the north of the state. They are all working in different capacities to pass down the Khanty’s cultural legacy. Rima writes books for children and adults about Khanty folklore. Marina is the curator of the Kazim anthropological museum. And Lena is a teacher and organizes the Khanty summer camp that I attended. Their passion for all things Khanty has inspired the village’s younger generation to preserve their customs, as well.

Alexandra and Ksenia (Altai, Russia): two young women who left their village for university and employment in the city. They both have a deeply nuanced understanding of the rural-to-urban transition taking place in Altai and what it means for their culture and livelihoods. While they are driven to succeed professionally, they are also incredibly cognizant of and committed to their roots. Alexandra just recently quit her job in the big city and moved back home to care for her aging mother.

These profiles present only a handful of the women I met this year who inspired me. Their strength comes from their commitment to their families, superior ability to network, and drive to take advantage of new opportunities that (often only recently) are available to them (higher education being one of them). They are living proof that we must stop construing women, particularly of the underclass, as victims. On the contrary: they are pillars of resilience, pulling their families through generation after generation of adversity. They enable change. And it’s about time we start talking about them more.

Not Just a Problem in the Global South

Several Russians have asked me why I bothered to come all the way here to study indigenous housing insecurity when I could make a very good project out of studying the same issues in the United States or Australia. “Touché,” I say. It’s really not fair for me to go through this entire year condemning the actions of foreign governments, companies, and majorities without at least mentioning my home countries. Because many, if not all of the processes I’ve described this year (forms of development, marginalization, deprivation of political rights) are also at work in the United States and Australia to varying degrees.

I know shamefully little about the the indigenous struggle in the United States and Australia beyond what I learned in primary and high school. But my parents live in “Indian country” as do my maternal and paternal grandparents, as does (respectfully) everyone I know living on American and Australian soil. Legally, of course, this land now belongs to the state or non-Native citizens. But can we really respect and feel justified within a legal system that has been (and continues to be) fraught with coercion, violence, and lack of reinforcement?


native_north_american_genocide_by_sabotsabot

While Americans recognize the brutality Whites inflicted upon Native Americans during the settling of the New World, most ignore the de facto and de jure injustices that plague our indigenous communities today. Since America’s founding, U.S. Presidents have made over 400 treaties with Native American tribes and have yet to meet their obligations on any of them. From 1953-1964, 109 tribes were terminated and federal responsibility and jurisdiction was turned over to state governments. Approximately 2,500,000 acres of reservation land were stolen and sold to non-Indians the tribes lost official recognition by the U.S. government. This has made availability of and access to key services by Native Americans much more arbitrary. While the Department of Justice has repeatedly ruled it unconstitutional, many states and districts today deny those living on reservations the right to receive the same services granted to other citizens of the state (schools, polling booths, clinics, and roads, to name a few).

The termination policy has also helped pave the way for modern energy, economic and social development on indigenous American tribal lands. Water, energy, and mineral resources sourced from Native American lands have fueled agricultural production and both urban and suburban expansion across the American West. Extraction is only a small part of the environmental injustices Native communities face today. The disposal of nuclear and petro-chemical waste, as well as the “accidental” contamination of groundwater and soils from pipelines and hydro-fracking all contribute to health and livelihood insecurity. In 2004, the U.S. Commission of Civil Rights stated that,

“It has long been recognized that Native Americans are dying of diabetes, alcoholism, tuberculosis, suicide, and other health conditions at shocking rates. Beyond disturbingly high mortality rates, Native Americans also suffer a significantly lower health status and disproportionate rates of disease compared with all other Americans.”

Despite the fact that Native communities lack access to affordable healthcare, medical facilities, healthy homes and safe land, the unjust conditions many are bound to are often used as fuel for continued de facto discrimination against them. Culture of poverty arguments and the perpetuation of racist stereotypes (related to violence, ignorance, and alcoholism) prevent Native people from gaining equal footing in this “Land of the Free”.


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The current oppression and marginalization of Australia’s Aborigines is similar to that of the United States. While the Commonwealth Electoral Act of 1962 (which recognized Aborigines’ voting rights) and the Aboriginal Land Rights Act of 1976 (which was the first piece of legislation to grant land rights to those who could prove traditional association with it) were important steps towards legal justice for Aborigines, deeply entrenched discrimination and injustices are proving harder to dismantle.

Particularly in remote regions, standards of health and education among indigenous people are often lower than among the general population. Rates of obesity, diabetes, alcoholism, and suicide are notably higher in Aboriginal communities. For example, the average life expectancy for Aboriginal men is 59, compared with 77 for non-indigenous men and child mortality is three times higher than the nation average. These disparities relate both to the unequal access to public services and associated chronic poverty, as well as the higher level of environmental risk that rural and urban Aboriginal communities face.

But, as is the case in the United States, White Australians often ignore these statistics, or worse, use them as leverage for further prejudice and discrimination. Sadder still is the lack of resources going to address the problems affecting citizens on our own soil. For example, in 2012, the Australian government spent $3.5 billion on indigenous-specific programs. In the same year it spent $5.4 billion on foreign development assistance.


 

It’s funny how we (I’m referring to the predominantly White, Western, middle-class that I identify as) so often focus our donations, time, and attention overseas. Why do we choose to ignore or trivialize problems happening in our own backyards? This question naturally leads into the issue of neo-imperialism and the white-savior complex. It is also interesting to consider how it intersects with nationalism.

Are we too proud as citizens of our own Western countries to admit that there are serious flaws undermining the foundations of justice and democracy here at home? It would be easy to say, “Well, I consider myself a citizen of the world and therefore feel it is my moral duty to work in places I deem most critical.” That is far too Kantian an ideal. Legacies of colonialism, racism, and military interventions cannot undo national borders so easily. It is a privilege if you think otherwise: most of the world still feels those borders and those labels acutely.

I wanted to bring up the topic of Whiteness and neo-imperialism because it relates to the United States, Australia, and Russia. When I speak to Russians about the problems in indigenous communities (lack of affordable housing and access to employment, bad grocery stores, loss of land tenure, etc.), everything always comes back to, “They’re all unemployed alcoholics, leaching off of state resources!” Strange that I hear the exact same response when someone brings up the same issues in Native American or Aboriginal communities at home. But as soon as I start talking about my experiences in Borneo, Bolivia, Peru, or Ethiopia, the response is resoundingly sympathetic: “Those poor people! How can their government allow this to happen?”

corporatisation cartoonCould it be that we tend to view minorities in the Global South (particularly those who have any type of exotic aesthetic) as greater victims, and their governments as more dysfunctional, than our own? I realize that there are many metrics showing that in terms of corruption, open-democracy, and human development, nations in the Global South rank far lower than those in the North (with Russia as the most notable exception). But I would argue that these rankings fall the way they do in large part because of the North’s longstanding leeching of Global South resources and political interventions.

I don’t want to get into the ethics of foreign aid and development. I just want to call attention to the bias in how we perceive indigenous people around the world differently.


 

I chose to compare indigenous communities in Malaysia, Peru, Ethiopia, and Russia because they were all countries I had studied abstractly in the past through various lenses. When I was developing my proposal for the Watson Fellowship, I realized that each tribe I originally selected to focus on (the Penan, Matsés, Omo Valley tribes, and Khanty) was being threatened by a different set of forces. The Penan, who had originally battled logging on their customary land are now fighting mega-dams; the Matsés are threatened by international oil and pharmaceutical companies, the Omo Valley tribes face losing pasture to plantations and dams, and the Khanty are being poisoned by the oil industry. Compounding these direct attacks to their homes are more indirect forms of slow violence: climate change, tourism, corruption, lack of political agency, alcohol, acculturation, dependency on the cash economy, etc.

Only in studying these four distinct areas was I able to understand the global systems at work destroying indigenous livelihoods. It’s no surprise that the places where we are extracting the most natural resources are the places where people (indigenous and not) are facing the greatest challenges. It’s also no surprise that the environments most sensitive to climate change and other forms of degradation are often the home of minority and indigenous people (permafrost tundra, equatorial countries, dry continental interiors, etc.) because that is where they have been relegated to through the process of urbanization and imperial expansion.

I felt a great sense of urgency in sharing these stories with you this year. The struggles I have documented are in no way new; all of these people have long legacies of oppression, many of which have been well-documented. But today is a different beast. Today, corporations are more powerful, governments are less autonomous, indirect compounding drivers like foreign consumption and climate change exist at a whole new magnitude, and the impacts are more opaque. And because the causes are so complex and the impacts less discernible, most of the world is blind or misinformed to what is truly happening, regardless of whether we talk about the United States or Borneo.

You have the obligation as a consumer and global citizen to understand the violence you are indirectly causing to indigenous and non-indigenous communities around the world. You buy petrol, medicines, electricity, hardwood furniture, and food products made of palm oil. You help set global agendas arguably more with your purchasing power than with your vote or annual donation to the World Wildlife Fund.

At the same time, to say everything I’ve reported on this year is your fault and responsibility would be far too absolute. Giving people in the “developed world” all the culpability and agency simultaneously denies the agency of local governments and indigenous communities, themselves. Rendering them as victims rather than autonomous people capable of maintaining their own lives and livelihoods is one of the biggest problems I see of neo-imperialism.

We need to start recognizing the rights of all people, indigenous and immigrants alike, to secure livelihoods and in so doing also recognize their autonomy and agency. And while it is definitely important to understand the impacts of our consumption and imperialism on places and people far from where we live, we must not forget that people are still battling for survival in our own backyards.


 

Further Reading

Adams, David Wallace. Education for Extinction: American Indians and the Boarding School Experience 1875–1928, University Press of Kansas, 1975.

Barak, Gregg, Paul Leighton, and Jeanne Flavin. Class, Race, Gender, and Crime: The Social Realities of Justice in America. Lanham, MD: Rowman and Littlefield, 2010.

Bullimore, Kim. “The Aboriginal Struggle for Justice and Land Rights.” Green Left Weekly, 2001.

Cunneen C. “Conflict, politics and crime: Aboriginal communities and the police.” Conflict, Politics and Crime: Aboriginal Communities and the Police. – 2001.

Dunbar-Ortiz, Roxanne. Native Land and African Bodies, the Source of U.S. Capitalism, in Monthly Review, 66: 9, 2015.

Gumbert M. Neither justice nor reason: a legal and anthropological analysis of aboriginal land rights. – St Lucia, Qld., Australia; New York: University of Queensland Press, 1984.

Kappler, Charles. “Indian affairs: laws and treaties Vol. II, Treaties”. Government Printing Office, 1904.

Racial Discrimination in Australia.” Creative Spirits, 2014.

Thornton, Russel. American Indian holocaust and survival: a population history since 1492. University of Oklahoma Press, 1990.

Wright, R. Stolen Continents: 500 Years of Conquest and Resistance in the Americas. Mariner Books, 2005.

Zinn, Howard. A People’s History of the United States, 1492-Present. Pan MacMillan Publishing, 2003.

Life off the Highway: My Week in an Altai Village

 

I first learned about Altai from my Russian visa agent, Debbie Chapman. I mention her because I learned just before my arrival in St. Petersburg that she died tragically in April. Debbie had traveled extensively in Russia and was well-connected with many environmental and human rights organizations here. She strongly urged me to travel to Altai and, looking back, I am so glad that I took her advice. This post is dedicated to her and all the lives she touched.

As I explained in A Personal Statement, I have consciously chosen to enter communities this year without reading about them first. Most of the resources available in academic databases follow highly prescribed Western scholastic frameworks. For the purpose of my field research, it was essential for me to enter with as few preconceived ideas and bias as possible and to practice as pure a form of on-site, local-knowledge-acquisition as I could.

I have come to understand Altai and its history from the narratives that local people told me. But having spent less than two weeks in Altai Krai and Altai Republic, my knowledge of this place is still limited. I have attached a list of additional resources at the bottom of this blog — should you be interested in reading more — that do a good job explaining the current status of development in Altai while also being critical of Western ideologies.


What Is Altai and Who Are the Altaians?

I first came to hear of Altai as an “ecoregion” from the international conservation organizations that Debbie put me in touch with. Like the name suggests, an ecoregion is a large area of land that contains a geographically distinct climate and collection of species. The Altai-Sayan Ecoregion describes a mountainous area encompassing parts of present-day Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and China. The Ob and Yenisei — two of the world’s largest rivers — originate in its mountains and over twenty ethnic groups have called its valleys home for several thousand years.

Most of these ethnic groups are Turkic and today identify themselves as a larger totality: Altaian. The Altaians are believed to have settled the ecoregion in 200 BC but fossil records reveal the presence of neanderthals and other early humans here as early as 1.5 million years ago. Driven across Eurasia by competing civilizations and the Silk Road, the Altaians found sanctuary in these mountains. For over a thousand years they were nomadic, subsisting off of hunting, trapping, and herding cattle, sheep and goats. Portions of their territory were annexed throughout the Bronze and Iron Ages, first by the Xiongnu Empire, then by the Mongolic Xianbei State, Rouran Khaganate, Mongol Empire, Golden Horde, and finally the Zunghar Khanate. But Altai was a large region and the most these great powers were able to do was collect tribute (usually of furs). Altaian livelihood patterns did not change much until Russian tsars ventured into their mountains in the mid-18th Century.


Occupation by the Russians

The Russians annexed the northern portion of the Altai Ecoregion (present-day Altai Krai and Altai Republic) because of its wealth of mineral resources, timber, and furs. Tsar-sponsored entrepeneurs soon founded the port cities of Barnaul and Gorno-Altaisk as distribution and manufacturing centers for metal ores, coal, and timber. Trade routes between Russia, Mongolia, and China wound their way through the narrow mountain passes of southern Altai. With the construction of roads to facilitate this trade came Russian settlers and Orthodox missionaries.

Up until this point, the Altaians had maintained a relatively autonomous lifestyle. Most were Tengrists or Shamanists and felt a deep connection to the land that sustained them. While the Orthodox Church gained a handful of converts and some Altaians settled to work for Russian enterprises, the majority felt the imposition of Russian authority and culture as a threat.

During the 1917 Revolution and resulting Civil War, the Altaians attempted to make their region a separate republic. But they were unsuccesful and eventually succumbed under Stalin’s harsh Soviet policies.


Collectivization by the Soviets

When the Altai Republic was formally incorporated into the USSR in 1922, the regime began the process of collectivizing rural people into large towns and labor camps. Industrialization policies brought many Russian immigrants to Altai, reducing the population of indigenous Altaians from 50% to 20%. Every Altaian was forced to farm wheat, develop infrastructure, or work in factories. The Soviets brought the end of nomadic pastoralism and by the 1950s, most Altaian families were living in a Russian-style house, growing potatoes, fruit, and vegetables, and subsisting off of the milk of one or two cows. Over 75% of the forests were cleared for agriculture during this period, causing the decline of game and fisheries.

By the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, Altains were dependent on the cash economy for their basic needs. Forced acculturalization had suppressed their identities as Altay people and they were left in the 1990s in a state of confusion and insecurity about the future.


Altai Today and Tomorrow

A long economic depression ensued in Altai’s rural areas after the fall of the USSR. Today, Altai Republic and Altai Krai rank among Russia’s poorest oblasts. With few remaining ore deposits and no oil and gas, its future prosperity rests in the hands of the tourism industry, which is fast emerging. In the last five years, property values in Gorno-Altaisk and along the Katun River have doubled, as Russia’s urban elites have bought up land for summer homes and resorts. This has had resounding consequences for low-income Altaians living in cities, as most must now spend more than 70% of their monthly income on rent in a competitive market.

The development of Altai has attracted the attention of multiple international stake-holders (namely Western conservation organizations that oppose the type of development model, which China is pursuing in its portion of the ecoregion). Most notable is the decade-long debate over a road that would connect Russia with China and facilitate international tourism and improve quality of life for rural Altaian communities in the mountains. A comprehensive case study on the politics of this project explains,

“While at the Chinese side of the border road construction went ahead, in Russia, a coalition of globally connected ecologists, romantic ‘Eurasianists’, nostalgic conservationists and anti-Chinese xenophobes turned the road into a political hot potato… In many instances, opposition to local authorities’ development plans tends to come from international organizations and foreign tourists, rather than residents or domestic tourists. The clash of views about the road through the Altai, this shared periphery of Western and Chinese civilizations, reveals profound disagreements on the meaning of development and of the ‘good life’ on the two sides of the border.”

Another project that international and local activists have voiced their concerns over is the development of a 2600 km natural gas pipeline, which will connect gas fields in Western Siberia with Northwestern China. The pipeline has been built as far south as Gorno-Altaisk but activists are contesting its continuation through the Ukok Plateau (home to many rural Altaians and several charismatic megafauna). According to the Altai Project’s report, the pipeline would mean the damage to sacred monuments, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and tundra wetland and permafrost; increased access for poachers using service roads and restrictions in access to traditional natural resources by indigenous peoples.


Life off of the Highway

All of these conversations about tourism, pipelines, and the future of Altai felt like a far-off battle in the context of village life. As is so often the case in the rural, indigenous communities I have spent time in this year, geographic isolation, political disenfranchisement, and chronic livelihood insecurity render native people unaware, or at most apathetic to the high-level battles over their environment.

I wanted to experience, first-hand, what life has become for rural Altaians in the 21st century. Three weeks ago I blindly made the 2300 km from Khanty-Mansiysk by bus and train through Tjumen, Novosibirsk, and Barnaul before reaching Gorno-Altaisk, the capital of Altai Republic. As usual, my plans and contacts formalized last-minute, and I was again saved by CouchSurfing. Alexandra, the only active member on CS in Gorno, invited me to visit her mother in her native village Inya, 400 km to the south. Alexandra, who speaks perfect English, was not able to join me, as she was working and living in Novosibirsk. I spent a night in Gorno with her best friend Ksenia, an unemployed architect who opened my eyes to the reality for those who leave their villages in search of a “better life”. The next day I set out in a van full of Altaians on a five-hour journey up the Katun River.

Just before leaving Gorno, I read in the news that Putin would be vacationing that week at his summer home, 30 km from Inya. Of all the places in Russia for him to land his helicopter, it happened to be right next door to me. It gets weirder:  the second I stepped out of the car in the village, the driver pointed to a helicopter flying directly overhead and said, “That’s Putin!”

Putin undoubtedly spent his week in a far different fashion than I did. Every time his helicopter passed over us, I wondered if he might land in the village to greet the 700 people at the periphery of his reign. Perhaps he was worried that the site of abandoned buildings, discarded vodka bottles, and old women herding their cows would ruin his appetite. Whatever the reason, we never got to shake his hand.

I spent the week in Alexandra’s home, with her mother Alya and older sister Chechesh. The days were slow, full of gardening, milking, and TV shows with intermittent chai breaks. Alya recently underwent heart surgery and prolonged physical exertion pains her. She and her daughter Chechesh are dependent on each other and are relatively co-sufficient in maintaining their small homestead. She has two sons also living in Inya but I didn’t see either of them doing much to support their mother; the younger one only showed up to invite me to drink with him.

Walking around this village, you would not know that it was once the thriving capital of Altai’s southern Angudei district. Inya emerged as a settlement in the late-19th century in large part because of its ideal geographic position: on a plateau at the crossing of the Katun River on the important trade route between Bisk (an industrial hub to the north) and Mongolia. Merchants had campaigned private investors for years to build a road and bridge through the area, to facilitate trade. They finally built the road at the turn of the 20th century and a bridge, which can still be seen from Inya today.

During the Soviet Era, Inya became the center of manufacturing for farm-equipment. Thousands of people lived in the town, as agricultural or factory laborers, military personel, or service workers. It boasted several government buildings and a college. When the Soviet Union collapsed and wheat production stopped, Inya’s economy faltered. The government lacked capacity to maintain rural services; over the next twenty years most businesses, the military base, and the college closed. Many people left for Altai’s larger cities to attend university and find viable employment.

What is left is a quaint spattering of homesteads, each with its own barnyard, kitchen garden, and both Russian and traditional round house. Chronic unemployment has led most men here to alcoholism. This impacts not only their health and potential, it drains their families’ savings and puts a huge burden on women to pick up the slack. I spent my week in one of these female-headed households, and the rest of this post is dedicated to the women I came to know.


Fruits of Her Labor

Today 80% of Altai people live in rural areas, subsisting off of small kitchen gardens and a handful of cows, goats, and chickens. Dairy (milk, cream, sour cream, curds, cheese, and oh so much butter) is a staple here and is supplemented with vegetables from the garden and grains and meat from the general store.

Women are responsible for taking care of the livestock and garden. Every morning, Alya and Chechesh wake up at 6 am to water the garden, milk the cow, and process the milk. The cow and her calf leave the farmyard to spend their day down by the river or feeding on shrubs in the hills. The days are hot now and they return with a thirst that no less than 8 buckets of water can cure.

All water comes from the well or the small rainwater cistern. Alya’s house has electricity (government-supplied) but no plumbing so every drop we use in the house we must fetch ourselves from the well. It’s a grueling job hauling bucket after bucket for the livestock, garden, and our own consumption. Inter-generational families are a blessing in this way: the younger generation can do the more laborious tasks and the elderly can control the processes requiring more experience (like making cheese).

Starting now through the end of September, the women busy themselves with processing the harvest. Apples and berries of all kinds make the best jams. Cucumbers, cabbage, beets, and tomatoes are pickled or preserved in oil. This harvest is an important component of peoples’ food security; the general stores carry limited produce and everything is up-priced since it must travel long distances to reach the village.


The World Through a TV Screen

It’s amazing how much influence telecasted messages can have on people who are otherwise cutoff from the outside world. Alya and Chechesh spent hours in front of their television screen, watching the news and various serials. I could only bare to sit through some of it. The news was always the same thing: live coverage of the war in Ukraine, an update on America’s two prison escapees, something amazing Putin did, followed by more news about Ukraine. Russian news, especially the stations that are available in rural areas is notoriously full of anti-Western, nationalist propaganda. It basically makes you think, “wow, our leader is doing everything he can to make our country great and any problems we have we should blame on the Americans.”

If people in Inya are being exposed to any stories about the development of Altai via their television sets, it will likely be framed in a positive light. With no internet and a “brain drain” of youth, people have little opportunity to learn the potential ramifications of new roads, pipelines, parks, and resorts in their district. I see television as another form of oppression: it sedates and pacifies people, preventing them from fighting for their rights to livelihoods and better services.


Women Who Will

Alexandra and Ksenia are among the many young women who are choosing to leave Inya for a better life in the city. When I asked Alexandra about the difference between young men and women’s aspirations, she explained that far more women seek higher education and jobs in the city than men. The reasons for this are unclear, although I suspect it has to do with men’s dependency on their mothers and with women’s desire to find more desirable life partners in urban areas.

Alexandra explained that 90% of people in their early twenties leave Inya to study in the cities. Many students who qualify as low-income receive grants for tuition, room and board. After university, only 10% return to Inya. The rest stay in larger cities to work and get married.

I asked Alexandra if she thought rural-to-urban transition and a separation from customary livelihoods and environments would lead to acculturation in her generation. She explained that in the last ten years there has been a surge of pride for one’s Altai identity. “For youth it’s cool to know the history of Altai Republic, to speak the language, and to dress up for holidays,” she explained. I saw a similar trend of reclaiming cultural identity in Khanty-Mansi Okrug.

It is inspiring to see this next generation of leaders break free from the Soviet mentality of uniformity and cultural suppression. Pride in one’s culture and identity is critical in standing up for one’s place in the world. And knowing that here in Altai this pride and ambition stems from the hearts of young women like Alexandra and Ksenia inspires me even more.


This blog has not done a good enough job telling the stories of heroines in the communities I visited this year. That’s not to say that I haven’t been collecting them. I have been highly attuned to women’s experiences in every place I have spent time in and I plan to compile some of them in my next blog. Until then, I’ll be traveling bareback through the Gobi Desert. Dasvedanya, Russia!


Further Reading

Barabanov, Oleg. “Greater Altai: A proposed alliance of the regions bordering Central Asia and Siberia.” Russia and Central Asia: Uneasy Neighbors 2 (2003): 20-25.

Dell’Amore, Christine. “Is This Russian Landscape the Birthplace of Native Americans?” National Geographic. February 3, 2012.

Nyíri, Pál, and Joana Breidenbach. “The Altai road: visions of development across the Russian–Chinese border.” Development and Change 39.1 (2008): 123-145.

A Month with the Khanty in Western Siberia

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“If no tent remains on this land after I am gone, what will I have lived for?”

-Khanty elder as quoted by Yuri Vela in “The Last Monologue”


Khanty Identity in 21st Century Russia

Soviet_Poster_4Understanding the meaning of our lives is a universal quest. While there are those of us who choose to withdraw from ourselves and society, most of us spend the majority of our time on this earth trying to leave some mark, be it altruistic, artistic, scholarly, monetary, or physical. In order to promote the continued functioning of our sociopolitical systems, most societies promote productivity among its citizens, encouraging us to work hard and reap the reward of a good life. Our jobs, our wealth, our contribution to collective knowledge bring purpose to our lives, we are told from childhood. This is not a recent development, nor is it confined to Fordist and post-Fordist societies. The Soviets ingrained the mantra “To have more, we must produce more,” into Russians’ psyches with such vigor that people still believe they must live and work in the same paradigm today. The meaning of life for most Russians is in their ability to have a family, an apartment, and a car; to exist passively in the nebulous, post-Soviet urban landscape.

For the Khanty, one of Russia’s 23 indigenous tribes, life’s meaning is not found in a brutalist apartment building of a city. Their purpose in life has always been tied to the taiga, to being stewards of its forests, rivers, and swamps. Despite 3,000 years of invasions, persecution, forced integration, and disenfranchisement, the Khanty have held onto this purpose as it is what has always defined their identity. But after surviving the Soviet regime, in which they were forced to abandon their homes and value system in favor of the new socialist order, many Khanty are now wondering how they can regain their life’s meaning in a land that is quickly slipping from their grip.


Witnessing Life in the Taiga

The sad truth is that today, a Khanty man has only 50 years on average to ensure the continuation of his land and legacy. Shockingly, only 70% of Khanty live beyond age 60, ten years below the national average. When I asked a friend in St. Petersburg why people in Russia’s rural communities die so young, she told me it was because of the stress of living through the Soviet Union. Perhaps this is true, but the Soviet Union collapsed 24 years ago and these statistics are not changing.

Sure, someone far removed from the reality of rural life could say, “They die young because they’re all alcoholics and smokers,” as they themselves sit in their comfortable flat with a cigarette in one hand and a bottle in another (true scenario). But let’s allow ourselves to imagine that the Khanty’s abhorrently short life expectancy may in fact be due to a combination of Soviet and post-Soviet environmental conditions; conditions the state, bootlegging corporations, and they themselves have shaped with troubling consequences.

la foto 1Western researchers and activists have written several compelling books and articles on the Khanty and their struggle for survival in the face of the oil and gas complex. This is how I first came to learn about Sasha Aipin. 350’s Western Caucus Coordinator, Yulia Makliuk, published a post highlighting the resilience of the Aipin clan in the face of the oil companies illegally drilling on their land. Yulia gave me Sasha’s contact and after 13 months of Google-translated email exchanges, I found myself sitting in the log cabin of his summer settlement, surrounded by his male kin, eating reindeer stew and salted fish.

I spent the past month in this way, exploring the homes (in cities, villages, and settlements) of Khanty families along the Agan and Kazim, two rivers that feed the majestic Ob-Irtish, the world’s third-largest river system.

While most of the articles about the Khanty concentrate on the injustices done to them in the last 100 years, these landscapes told of a much more ancient struggle, one that goes back over 3,000 years and relates as much to the Khanty’s livelihood security as it does to their identity as a people.

This post cannot possibly do justice to the last month’s worth of experiences, new friends, and research I gathered. However, I hope that in reading this you will at least glimpse the reality for a people whose existence in this environment from the very start has been a struggle. And I hope you will see how our world’s insatiable appetite for fossil fuels and the corruption of this government and the corporations invested in it impact not only Khanty’s life expectancy but life meaning, as well.


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Khanty-Mansiysk, Ugra’s capitol city

Taming the Taiga

la foto 2I assumed that after ten months in equatorial climates, a month in Russia’s cool northern forests would be a nice break from extreme conditions. On the contrary, these were the harshest environmental conditions I have faced thus far: extremes of hot and cold, white nights, and worst of all mosquitoes. When I visualized Borneo, the Amazon, and the Omo Valley, mosquitoes were a big part of the picture. But the numbers in those environments were nothing compared to what you find in the taiga. The Ob-Irtysh River system drains the west Siberian basin, defined on the east by the Yenesi River highlands, the south by the Altai steppes, and the west by the Ural Mountains. In May, several meters of ice and snow break apart and flood the valley, submerging 1.6 million km2 (the size of Alaska) of peat-swamps and conifer forests under water. Not only does this make building difficult and maintenance costly, it provides the perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes and disease-bearing ticks.

la foto 1Sub-zero winters and mosquito-ridden summers coupled with poor soil quality may not sound like an ideal environment for a group of subsistence agriculturalists from the Ural steppes. But in 2,000 B.C., when Central Asian tribes were expanding north, the Khanty had little choice but to settle the lower-Ob. For several hundred years they subsisted off of fish, game, and berries. They built large communal subterranean homes along the tributaries of the Ob and Irkutsk. As the world south of them became more connected with the Silk Road, trade of furs for tools, vessels, fabrics, and beads gained importance.


Invading Nomads (800-1600 A.D.)

Beginning in 800 A.D., a series of nomadic peoples swept across south Siberia, most notably the Tatars. For several hundred years, the Tatars controlled the major ports along the rivers and imposed a tax (of furs) on the Khanty. Warfare over the control of the fur trade led to the rise of a stratified society, led by chieftains. Simultaneously their living systems formalized into fortified villages along main waterways. There was some cultural exchange and intermarriage between the Khanty and Tatars but the Khanty continued to adhere to their traditional modes of livelihood and their cultural identity stayed largely intact.


Colonization by the Tsars and Church (1600-1917 A.D.)

The early 1600s marked the start of 300 years of tsarist rule. The Russians spread east quickly, establishing administrative centers and using both physical violence and religious proselytizing to undermine the Khanty chieftains and shamans. Following the demise of their caste system, Khanty scattered from fortified towns to family settlements. Greater Russian access to the hinterland put pressure on game and fisheries. But despite the occupation of their land by the Russians, the Khanty maintained their identity as a people and stewards of the taiga.

They began to define borders around family hunting grounds and many north of the Ob adopted reindeer herding as a means of guaranteeing year-round meat availability for consumption and trade. As caretakers of the deer, they had to ensure their access to fresh “pastures” (coniferous forests with thick floors of white lichen). Herders adopted a nomadic lifestyle to follow the deer to seasonally-appropriate pastures. This expanded their conceptualization of their “home territory”.


Surviving the Soviets

During the Civil War, when tsarist and Soviet troops swept across the taiga killing anyone who might be their opposition (i.e. everyone), many Khanty retreated upriver. Beginning in the 1930s, however, Soviet collectivization forced most Khanty into villages and working cooperatives. Ugra (officially Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug today) was rich in natural resources (namely timber, fish, and fur). The government therefore prioritized the establishment of working cooperatives here in order to fill the deficit of these resources in the west. Clans with reindeer were required to hand them over to the state, then form cooperatives to herd them collectively. Clans south of the Ob whose livelihoods depended on fishing had to turn in their catch; those who were caught fishing and selling privately were held in contempt of the state and punished.

Collectivization was intended to break individual connection to property and capital by reorganizing labor on a communal basis, centrally administering production, and distributing resources “equally” across all of Russia. But this totalitarian methodology did not have the desired effect. Working cooperatives (based on clan divisions) were already a part of many Khanty communities so peoples’ sense of personal entitlement was not destroyed in the same way it was with neighboring Russian communities. Several Khanty villages, including Kazim and Varyogan where I stayed, found means of both active (in the case of the 193X Kazim Revolt) and passive resistance to collectivization. The Aipin clan, for example, kept settlements along the Agan and Enel Rivers while simultaneously living in Varyogan and sending their children to school at the mandatory Internat boarding schools.

Things changed for the Khanty in 1960s with the discovery of oil. The state began to drill immoderately, with no regard to environmental preservation or conservation of the Khanty’s sacred cultural sites. Large towns sprang up near the oil fields, notably Beloyarski near Kazim and Novoagansk near Varyogan. The 1970s marked the forced relocation of families from their traditional hunting and herding territories to make room for oil and gas development. As towns grew, roads constructed, and game and fish dwindled (from over-consumption by incoming Russians and habitat loss), many Khanty chose to move into town to access services and employment. According to Fondahl, by the 1980s, planned burning and oil spills had already destroyed 220,000 km2 (the size of the UK) of reindeer pasture and hunting grounds.

By the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, most Khanty had homes in town, owned cars and snowmobiles, and earned wages. But while Soviet development may have created dependency on the cash economy and increased rates of alcoholism and crime, it had not erased the Khanty’s identification with their land and culture.


Environmental Injustice in the 21st Century

la foto 3 (1)Post-Soviet privatization led to the dissolution of the state oil monopoly and bootlegging oil companies took over production. Legislation was introduced in 1993, which allowed the Khanty to redraw their customary land boundaries prior to the Soviet Union. However, land rights have been poorly implemented and protected because government officials have vested interests in companies eager to drill on Khanty land. Companies are supposed to obtain lease and compensation agreements from the Khanty before drilling or building related infrastructure, but these are often falsified, signatures are coerced, and drilling continues without the Khanty’s knowledge or consent. Many Khanty complain that even when they do give conditional consent, companies do not fulfill their promises for compensation (read Chapter 7 of Andrew Wiget’s Khanty, People of the Taiga to learn more).

Without protection or effective political voice, many Khanty who choose to stay on their lands are literally witnessing their demise. This report for Greenpeace includes a fairly comprehensive list of environmental disasters in Ugra associated with oil pollution. I saw my own fair share of spills, careless burning and clearing of sites for pipelines and oil fields, polluted waters, and the long-term impact this activity has had on fisheries and forest health.

la foto 4I first stayed with a family near Kogalym who had given permission for a company to drill adjacent to their property line (100 meters from their home). In exchange, both parents have jobs working for the company, receive pellets for their reindeer, and get electricity wired to them from the station. While it is trivial price for the company to pay for the huge profits it is raking in off of this land, the cost for this family is still unfolding. Runoff from leaky pipes has wound up in their drinking water supply, their reindeer are now isolated from their traditional feeding grounds, and the family is dependent on the company for their livelihood generation. Who knows what might happen to them in the future.

la foto 5After Kogalym, I took a boat up the Agan River to Sasha Aipin’s summer settlement. As Yulia details in her article, Sasha’s family has been one of the few to actively fight the invasion of companies. As a family that has one foot in each world – splitting their time between Varyogan and Novoagansk, where the women work and children attend school, and the settlements, where the men tend to their reindeer, hunt and fish – the Aipins understand the importance of safeguarding the environment from reckless profiteers, both for the conservation of their deer’s habitats and for their own health and longevity. The Aipins were the only family I met who were relatively successfully able to balance their lives between the forest and the town.

la foto 4In the north, 30 km east of Beloyarski is Kazim, a traditional Khanty village famous for its resistance to Soviet collectivization in the 1930s. There, I spent a week with a family who has nearly lost touch with their forest and therefore distanced (but not removed) from the impact of oil. In Kazim, less than 15% of families still herd reindeer. The rest commute to Beloyarski daily to work in the service, cultural, or oil sector. While they still celebrate the aesthetic elements of their culture – including clothing, basket-making, stories, and traditional music – I wondered how their children will be able to identify as Khanty if they never know the forest or its forms of livelihood generation.


What Now?

If no tent remains on this land after I am gone, what will I have lived for?

In his article for Cultural Survival, Wigit explains eloquently:

“(Establishing resource security and autonomy in choosing one’s own future) is obviously an enormously complex process, and perhaps nowhere more so than in Russia, where the process is constrained by the absence of a legal basis for recognizing native peoples as distinct communities with their own interests, by deeply embedded authoritarian habits, and by an economy driven by the need for hard currency derived from the export of Siberian natural resources. As Russia moves toward developing regulations that balance national interests with private development, what is needed is an effective, integrated process of environmental, social, and cultural impact assessment.”

Action needs to be taken on all levels if the Khanty are to regain their livelihood security and preserve their identities, which are tied to the forests. Decreasing consumption of fossil fuels on an international level, calling out the international human rights violations being undermined, lobbying federal and oblast administrations to strengthen and uphold the legislation they create, and grassroots action by Khanty communities themselves are all critical.

Dependency is the biggest threat I see to resisting the injustices happening to them. Dependency causes fragmentation, blindness, apathy, and loss of identity. But there is power both in the telling of this struggle and the retelling of the Khanty’s past. I got to spend my last week in Ugra at a Khanty children’s summer camp upriver from Kazim. There, thirty children gathered to learn from elders about their Khanty roots. Separated from the televisions and smartphones that acculturate them at home, they spent the week sleeping in a chum (a traditional tipi nomadic herders once used), making baskets and jewelry, playing games, and performing Khanty theater and dance. Witnessing these children’s excitement was an inspiring way to end my time in Ugra. It shows that their identity and life purpose might be able to encompass both worlds: that of the forest, and that of our inescapable mainstream society. And with this evolved identity can come unity, resilience, and hopefully justice: a damn good thing to have lived for.la foto 2


Further Reading

Dean, Bartholomew, and Jerome M. Levi. At the risk of being heard: identity, indigenous rights, and postcolonial states. University of Michigan Press, 2003.

Fondahl, Gail, Viktoriya Filippova, and Liza Mack. “Indigenous Peoples in the New Arctic.” The New Arctic. Springer International Publishing, 2015. 7-22.

Gerasimova, Elena. “Russia: Khanty take action to stop road construction through sacred site by oil company.” Reindeer Herders, April 30, 2014.

Glavatskaya, Elena. “Religious and ethnic revitalization among the Siberian Indigenous people: The Khanty case.” Senri ethnological studies (2004).

Haller, Tobias, ed. Fossil Fuels, Oil Companies, and Indigenous Peoples: Strategies of Multinational Oil Companies, States, and Ethnic Minorities: Impact on Environment, Livelihoods, and Cultural Change. Vol. 1. LIT Verlag Münster, 2007.

Ingram, Verina, and Willemse, Reimond. “West Siberia Oil Industry Environmental and Social Profile.” Report for Greenpeace, 2001.

Leonard, William R (April 2002). “Declining growth status of indigenous Siberian children in post-Soviet Russia”. Human Biology. Retrieved 2007-12-27.

Makliuk, Yulia. “Will the Khanty Save Russia?” 350.org, 2013.

Pentikainen, Juha. “Khanty shamanism today: Reindeer sacrifice and its mythological background.” Shamanism and Northern Ecology 36 (1996): 153.

Ugra Investment Report, 2012.

Wiget, Andrew. “Black Snow: Oil and the Khanty of West Siberia.” Cultural Survival, 1996.

Wiget, Andrew, and Olga Balalaeva. Khanty, People of the Taiga: Surviving the 20th Century. University of Alaska Press, 2011.

Slezkine, Yuri. “The USSR as a communal apartment, or how a socialist state promoted ethnic particularism.” Slavic Review (1994): 414-452.

Sunderland, Willard. “Russians into Iakuts?” Going Native” and Problems of Russian National Identity in the Siberian North, 1870s-1914.” Slavic Review(1996): 806-825.

Creating a Perma-Culture in Russia’s Cities (Part 2)

If you follow my blog, you must know by now that I am cynical of the standard model of development most of the world aspires to. “Development” as defined by our world’s most powerful governments and corporations falls within the paradigm of unending economic growth. I believe it is impossible to grow our economies indefinitely on the timescale humans operate within, as that would require an infinite amount of natural resources, most of which have regeneration rates on much larger timescales.

The proponents of this type of development promise that it will advance societies and create wealth and livelihoods for the world’s poor. Everything in my studies, travels, and conversations with the world’s “poorest people” has revealed otherwise. Hegemonies (wealthy governments and corporations with a history of exploiting people and their environments to make profit and retain power) want you to believe this story of never-ending growth and inevitable prosperity. It secures their position on the world stage. It reinforces a top-down approach whereby those who hold the most power (white, heterosexual, upper-middle-class men) make the decisions and are farthest from the social and environmental consequences.

Nowhere is this system more transparent than in the city and its immediate rural context. Cities are centers of wealth and power. They run on the natural resources sourced from their hinterlands. Traditionally, these hinterlands were more localized in scale, spanning only a few kilometers from the city, where food, fodder, fuel, water, and construction materials could be sourced. In feudalist societies, peasants occupied slums of cities’ fringes and the villages in its hinterlands. Hinterlands and the people who lived there existed to buttress the urban elite. The environmental degradation and suffering by rural people, which such a hierarchical system of development caused, went largely unnoticed by those who benefited from it (largely because of their spatial and “moral supremacist” distance from the externalities).

Today, hinterlands assume an entirely different definition. With the introduction of global supply chains and access to essentially every square meter of the planet, cities now run off of the exploitation of rural people and their environments in distant lands. This is the concept of slow violence, which I have described in previous posts, whereby the world’s most privileged people are uplifting themselves at the expense of traditionally marginalized, disenfranchised people and their environments. This is not just injustice, it is a slow and often invisible type of violence.

A lot needs to change in our current model of development. And it doesn’t just involve tacking the term “sustainable” in front of it and pushing forward. To truly develop in a just, equitable, and sustainable way, we must ask ourselves what we seek through development? What would a developed world look like? Would it be having New York Cities scattered around the globe? Is it a world of endless opportunities?

I would like to see a world where 95% of wealth and political power is not in the hands of 5% of the population. Where peoples’ basic needs can be satisfied and their rights respected. Where people can really choose whether they want to live their lives in a city or on the land their ancestors passed down to them, rather than being coerced or otherwise forced into urbanizing. I do not envision an equal world (that is far too naïve an ideal), but I do envision a just world where environmental limits are recognized and respected. In this world, the proletariat would play a real part in their countries’ decision-making processes. Success in business would be reimagined as a system of sustainable livelihood generation, rather than limitless growth of profits.

Turning people on to this idea may seem like an impossible challenge. In cities, where 66% of the world will live by 2050, most people become passive within a system that tells them they must work hard, have a family, respect the rules, buy stuff, and maybe get lucky. Yet, waking up to the realities of this system of exploitation and conformity is possible. It can begin with a handful of visionary change-makers.

In Moscow, after decades of tsarist, communist, and now totalitarian/corporate oppression, most people have trouble imagining what their lives could be like if they were to be given freedom from conformity. But there are people challenging the status quo and I was lucky enough to meet some of them and learn about their projects:


Anton, the founder of Fruits and Veges:

la foto 3Fifteen years ago, Anton was a rebel who was repeatedly being kicked out of school, getting into fights, doing drugs, and riding around the city at night on his motorcycle. He finally left school and moved to Goa, India, where he spent several months doing more drugs on the Russian-dominated beaches, in an attempt to escape from a life that he didn’t see himself living. One day he ventured north to Nepal, discovered another way of living that was free of worldly pretensions and material obsessions, and decided to move back to Russia.

Back in Moscow, Anton surrounded himself with architects and high-achieving visionaries. But he was still finding it difficult to commit to a life of aimless productivity and began searching for something meaningful he could grab onto.

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A couple of years ago, he found a space for rent in ArtPlay, an old factory that now houses various design firms, education facilities, and slightly bourgeoisie restaurants. ­­It was the factory’s vacant bomb shelter. With the help of his friends, Anton raised enough money and gathered enough reclaimed materials to turn the bomb shelter into a functioning vegetarian restaurant. His friend Misha, an architect, donated a light-framed shelter he had designed for a low-budget building competition. Anton installed it above the bomb-shelter and now uses it as his home and experimental greenhouse.

la foto 2Fruits and Veges has since become one of the most popular venues for Moscow’s hipsters. It sits glaringly in the courtyard of ArtPlay with no clear signage or purpose. Once you discover the building’s entrance, however, you are sucked in. A long staircase with built-in tables on both sides leads you down into the pit of the shelter, where friendly staff work in a fully visible kitchen. They offer a simple menu of falafel wraps, soup, salad, daily curry, cheesecake, tea, coffee, and freshly made juice and smoothies. All of it is insanely cheap, locally sourced, and served unpretentiously.

la foto 3When I asked Anton to describe his business model, he admitted honestly that he doesn’t have one. “I like serving cheap food. It makes me happy to see people well-fed and unstressed about money,” he explained. This plan hasn’t always worked out for him. He had to borrow a lot of money from friends at the start of the project, which he has only now started to pay back. He also had to close for a couple of months this spring because he could not afford the rent. But things are looking up now and Anton is well on his way to achieving an “accidental” sustainable business model.

It works like this: source from local farmers and food-distributors to keep money in the community, hire local staff and pay them a fair wage so that they can sustain themselves without having to work two full-time jobs, price the menu to cover the basic costs of food, wages, and rent. When customers understand that they are not being up-priced, they become loyal, preferring to spend their rubles there than in a profit-mongering food chain. Then you have a business model that is sustainable – not profit-making – but perfectly sustainable.


Anton and Pasha’s Coffee Shop (Cherny Cooperative):

la foto 2Two years ago, Artem was struggling as a journalist in a notoriously closed and controlled media environment. At that time, the coffee scene in Moscow was dominated by a handful of chain cafes that over-priced, over-roasted, over-sweetened, and over-creamed their coffee. He and his friends had traveled to other parts of Europe and were inspired by the independent coffee shops they visited, where coffee was prepared by hand and drunk to enjoy the subtleties in its taste. Artem quit his job and joined four others to create what became known as Cherny’s Cooperative. The objective of the “cooperative” was to create a sustainable system where work and profit would be shared equally amongst the five members. Sounds nice, but it ended up being full of problems.

la foto 1Unable to afford rent, the cooperative spent their first six months in the corner of a local bookstore. They then moved in with Anton at ArtPlay and sold coffee in Fruits and Veges for a year. Throughout this time, several members of the cooperative had no choice but to move back in with their parents. They were all supposed to be committed to this project and therefore not supplement their income with other part-time jobs. But they were barely making enough to cover their operational costs, let alone their own basic living expenses. Their approach was proving to be economically unviable and in October, they lost one of their members and decided to close for a month.

This past November, the four remaining cooperative members decided to switch from a coffee shop to a coffee subscription model. They would begin roasting their own coffee and deliver it monthly to subscribers around Moscow. They gained followers quickly but it was not enough to cover the upfront capital investments. Their mistake in this stage of the project was their failure to secure enough financial back-up for the first six months of the project. They began taking out loans just for the operational costs of roasting and delivering.

When the ruble fell in December, the subscription project faced even more challenges. They were buying coffee at international prices and selling it to locals whose comparative purchasing power had fallen drastically. Coffee, which is a luxury for most people, was forgotten amidst the rising costs of food staples and Cherny’s lost many of their subscribers. In March, two more members decided to quit, leaving only Artem and his brother Pasha.

Having already invested so much time and energy into making Cherny’s a reality, Artem and Pasha decided to push forward. Listening to their friends and loyal customers from past months, they realized that having a coffee shop, where people could come spend time and experience the art of making coffee, was what people wanted. So they set out to find a storefront in a nearly impossible real estate market.

la foto 4They were lucky enough to find a space for only $3,000/ month in the city center, a five-minute walk from their apartment. They share the space with a man who sells craft beer, which halves their rent and keeps the storefront activated from 10 am to midnight. Paying $1,500/ month is unheard of in that neighborhood, where all of the surrounding storefronts cost at least $8,000/ month. How is this possible? The property is government-owned, which rents for ten percent of the price of private real estate. The renter whom they sub-let it from likely had a pharmacy, bank, or other public service before, which are typically the only businesses eligible to receive government property. All this to say that the real estate business in Moscow is underhanded, subject to corruption, and dominated by opaque laws.

la foto 5Two months into the new chapter of Cherny’s, Artem and Pasha are well on their way to having a sustainable business model. In this central location, they are growing their loyal customer base rapidly. In addition to paying for the rent for the building and roaster, the upfront cost of the coffee machines, the recurring material costs, and the loans they took out at the start, both are finally earning a $700/ month income. This is enough for them to pay their own living expenses. Artem explained that he doesn’t ever hope to get rich from this project. “I started this project because I wanted to contribute something to Moscow culture, not make money. A sustainable business model is just that: you don’t upsell your clients and are still smart enough and sacrifice enough in the project’s early stages to make it through to a system that pays for itself.”

The main barrier to achieving a sustainable business model in Moscow is rent. The ever-growing influx of people and businesses to the city is causing property values to soar. Moscow, one of the world’s most expensive cities, is an extreme example of a worldwide urban phenomenon, which makes creating small-businesses a huge challenge. Both Anton and Artem were exceptionally lucky to find the spaces they did. Had they not, they definitely would not have survived. Young entrepreneurs like them will have to become increasingly more resourceful in this city and those like it: sharing spaces, using a pop-up business model, moving into the virtual-realm, etc.. That is, if they want to continue living in the city.


Nikola Levinets: An Alternative Approach to Alternative Living

People like Anton and Artem have worked hard to create alternative livelihoods for themselves in an urban environment that preferences corporations and conformity. This is the inevitable struggle that comes with the urban experience. There are some people, however, who choose to abandon the urban life they grew up with and pursue alternative livelihoods and lifestyles far from the city, where there is more freedom of expression, land, and fewer laws.

Nikola Levinets is the brainchild of Nikolay Polissky and Vasily Shchetinin, two artistic visionaries who sought to develop a free space for artists to live in, interact with nature, and produce creative work. Begun in 1980, it quickly gained momentum and is now buoyed by grants from private institutions and festival revenues. 200 km west of Moscow in the Kaluga region, the community covers 650 hectares along the winding Ugra River. Every year, artists submit proposals for a new landscape installation and the winner receives funding to construct it. Installations range from massive labyrinths hidden in fields of dandelions to climbable wooden towers and sculptures. The space is free and open to the public, although its remoteness makes it difficult to access for people without their own vehicles.

I desperately wanted to experience Nikola Levinets before I headed east to Siberia and asked Anton of Fruits and Veges if he was down for a spontaneous road trip. He was! On Saturday morning, despite thunderstorm warnings, we jumped onto his vintage (code for rickety) motorcycle and sped out of the city towards Kaluga. By some miracle it didn’t rain and we didn’t die on the horrible Russian roads. We spent the whole afternoon tromping through colorful fields, wetlands, and pine forests, stumbling across installations in the most unlikely places. The experience felt almost too idyllic. While perfect for a visit, Nikola Levinets felt far too removed from the struggles of everyday human existence, both urban and rural, for me to want to stay there too long.

Despite the inevitable calm that greets you in utopian communities like Nikola-Levinets, I could never justify living out my days in this way. It feels too privileged and escapist to me. I need to surround myself with some reminder of the hardships of everyday people, as it gives meaning to my life and a purpose to work for. I am not drawn to design for the sake of creating interesting installations. I don’t want to turn the world into some sort of utopia (Corbusian, Nikola-Levinetsian, or otherwise).

I want to design buildings because I see it as a useful way to change the status quo around who has power, justice, and access to resources (environmental and social) in the built environment. I see my field contributing to the success of people like Anton and Artem, who seek only to bring something they love to their communities. In being a designer, I hope I contribute in some small way to creating the type of dynamic, people- and planet- centered perma-culture that we ultimately need to survive. That’s the closest to “sustainable development” I think I’ll ever get.

Creating a Perma-Culture in Russia’s Cities (Part 1)

Mayrah

I have spent the past two weeks soaking up the first rays of Russia’s summer sun, first in St. Petersburg and now in Moscow. More so than the past four countries I stayed in, Russia is unchartered territory for me. Despite its fantastic railroad network, plethora of wi-fi hotspots, and relatively well organized social and political system, I feel substantially more nervous and unprepared to embark on my journey east than I have in the arguably “wilder” and more remote areas I visited earlier. Perhaps it is the shear size of my impending journey (5000 aerial kilometers to Beijing), or my inability to say more than “please” and “thank you” in Russian that feeds this anxiety. But beyond these logistical challenges, I worry that I don’t understand the Russian ethos or how the country’s history informs the present and future lives of people here.

Most people I have met seem resigned to live the lives they inherited in this post-Soviet landscape. They hover in this strange limbo, half-embracing Western capitalism and half-resisting outside control. This is the urban experience, where people spend their days working in modern European city centers and return at night to their brutalist Soviet-era apartment buildings on the city’s fringes. I have been lucky to stay with friends in both cities who have shed varying perspectives on the Russian ethos and who have managed to adopt lifestyles that veer from the mainstream.


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The architecture of St. Petersburg and Moscow does a better job explaining this country’s history and current ethos than the people themselves. Both cities were developed during Russia’s Muscovite and Imperial epochs (1230-1712; 1721-1917), when tsars commissioned lavish churches, palaces, and centers of art and theater to commemorate their power and culture. Many of these buildings were partially destroyed during World War II or else demolished by the Soviets who mandated atheism and condemned hedonism.

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Seventy years of Soviet totalitarianism drastically impacted the cities’ plans and buildings. Soviets propagated formalism and proposed plans for large, organized, and technically advanced cities. After WWII, Stalinist policies forced rapid urbanization and emphasized constructing brutalist and monumentalist buildings from the rubble of the war. Stalin built huge, multi-lane highways through cities and promoted the industrialization and productivity of urban spaces over their habitability by people. He also constructed massive fields of apartment buildings on the cities’ peripheries, where each family was given a room in a communal apartment and shared a kitchen and bathroom with several other families on the floor. Today, most people still live in these apartment buildings, although spaces have been redivided to consider modern expectations for privacy and space.

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In 1990, the Soviet Union collapsed and many building projects were put on hold. Over the last thirty years, as Russia’s economy strengthened and its building codes were loosened, its cities have grown in three interesting ways. (1) Many of the Classical and Baroque buildings that were destroyed in the twentieth century are being restored or even reconstructed in a nostalgic effort to recreate a sense of European opulence and grandeur. (2) An ever-growing demand for affordable housing has spurred the construction of both public and private apartment buildings, which often adhere to the same monotonous architectural forms that were characteristic of Soviet times. (3) Simultaneously, developers are looking to modernize business districts, erecting glass and concrete skyscrapers and shopping centers everywhere you look.

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Within all of these formalized changes to Russia’s urban fabric, more subtle but equally important grassroots projects are in the works. It is these projects that have gripped my attention over the last couple weeks. While they don’t exactly align with my interest in studying indigenous housing insecurity, I find it fascinating and useful to study housing and livelihood insecurity in an urban context and how people are taking the power into their hands to create the culture and lives they want for themselves in Russia’s twenty-first century. I would categorize many of these initiatives under the umbrella of permaculture, the systems approach to creating ecologically harmonious permanent human settlements.

Looking back at my past posts, it seems strange that I haven’t yet discussed permaculture in the context of my project. Permaculture is not a new concept. The word was coined in 1978 by two Australian designers but its principles were being explored decades earlier in the United States, Japan, and elsewhere. What began as an effort to develop regenerative and self-sustaining agricultural systems has broadened to include all ways in which we design for human societies in the broader environment (buildings, biotechnology, forestry, etc.). Permaculture has not been  adopted into mainstream design and engineering fields (yet) because its definitions and theoretical underpinnings are still rather vague. There are many definitions out there that I like, all of which are a bit different:

“Permaculture is the art and science that applies patterns found in nature to the design and construction of human and natural environments.” — Larry Santoyo

 “Permaculture uses a set of principles and practices to design sustainable human settlements.” — Toby Hemenway

“Permaculture is a way of life which shows us how to make the most of our resources by minimizing waste and maximizing potential. Conscious design of a lifestyle which is highly productive and does not cause environmental damage. Meeting our basic needs and still leaving the earth richer than we found it.” — Graham Bell

“Permaculture provides an ethical & holistic foundation for sustainable culture. The principles are derived from three basic ethics: Care for the Earth; Care for People; Limit needs & Reinvest in Future. Permaculture uses the energies of wind, sun, water, soil & the myriad biological processes of the world’s organisms.” — Ben Haggard

“Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system.” — Bill Mollison

“Permaculture offers an understanding of how biological processes are integrated, and it deals primarily with tangibles: plants, soils, water, animal systems, wildlife, bush regeneration, biotechnology, agriculture, forestry, architecture, and society in the areas of economics, land access, bioregions and incomes tied to right livelihood.” — Rosemary Morrow

Of course, permaculture is a system of solutions and my Watson research aims to understand the nuances of the problems, only, and not propose solutions. But I still find it a worthwhile pause to see what ideas locals have come up with in Russian cities to deal with rising cost of housing, introduce systems of urban food generation in the wake of sanctions and widespread food insecurity, and decrease dependence on virgin resources and fossil fuels (Russia’s main industry).

The following are three “permaculture” projects in or near Moscow that I will write more about over the next few days:

Fruits and Veges – opened a few months ago, this place was an instant success. It’s nestled within a large factory complex that has been adapted to house progressive and creative businesses ranging from design firms to art schools. Anton, the owner, built a space-ship-like greenhouse above a former bomb shelter. A vegan cafe occupies the lower bomb shelter and profits fund Anton’s urban agricultural experiments in the greenhouse above. More information and sketches to come!

Cherny Cooperative – you might ask yourself how a cooperative of five people who are selling hand-brewed coffee could be considered permaculture. Sure, they’re not designing urban agricultural systems, but they are designing a new type of business, one that is more ecologically sustainable and socially just both for those living in Moscow and for those who are exporting the coffee. Plus their coffee is really good!

Nicola Lenivets – a 650 hectare territory north of Moscow that serves as a natural, self-regulated environment for life, recreation, art and work in harmony with nature. It offers residencies for artists, who create large installations that experiment with biomimicry and ecological wellness, workshops, and a communal living space for people who want to live off the grid. I’ll be visiting this weekend!

Check back soon to learn more about these incredible projects. Until next time!

Goodbye Ethiopia!

As I embark on the last leg of my Watson Fellowship tonight (beginning in St. Petersburg and ending in Beijing), I can’t help but reminisce about my time here in Ethiopia.

I came to this country feeling lost and unprepared. My NGO and faculty contacts in the Omo Valley had dead-ended and I felt unready to begin my research down there. Instead, I headed north to spend a month in the Ethiopian highlands. I had actually dreamt of traveling to Geblen, Tigray for eight years and don’t know why I hadn’t considered integrating a trip into my Watson project before. Geblen ended up being both the highlight and nadir of my time in Ethiopia. It was such a joy to connect with the people whose lives I had studied and written about so abstractly in the past. It was also incredibly distressing to see how severe and hopeless their lives have become in such a degraded environment.

The second portion of my research in Ethiopia focused on the Omo Valley. I divided my three weeks there between three different communities that encompassed the spectrum of livelihood generation: agriculture, agro-pastoralism, and pastoralism. The Omo Valley was as disheartening as Geblen with respect to its communities’ livelihood insecurity. I just wrote several blog posts about it and can’t bear to write about it any more!

The last portion of my research here focused on urban housing insecurity in Addis Ababa. Rural-to-urban migration is rapid in this city of 4 million, mostly as a consequence of indigenous livelihood insecurity and forced resettlement schemes. Addis is not prepared to deal with the influx of people and an estimated 80% of its population lives in informal settlements. I spent the last two weeks doing a visual analysis of Addis’s periods of growth and met with professors, urban planners, and local politicians to understand what is (and isn’t!!) being done to address the housing crisis.

History of AA Urbanism

I have many people to thank for supporting me here over the past three months: my friends and family who were always a Skype call away when I needed them, the guides and villagers who showed me so much hospitality in the highlands and the Omo Valley (you know who you are!), the travelers I met along the way with whom I shared many miseries and joys, the faculty and staff at EiABC for helping me synthesize the last portion of my research, and most of all Lorenzo Suarez, the Swiss Counsellor for Development and Humanitarian Affairs who provided me a home base in Addis and many important insights and contacts. Thank you!

To see my compiled visual journals, check out this link. If you are interested in obtaining high-resolution versions of any of these images, please email me at mayrah.udvardi@gmail.com.

Preferencing a Minority

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I had spent the last hour at the dusty junction of Turmi trying to get a ride to the town of Omorate, 100 km south on the border of Kenya. My plan over these last couple weeks had been fluid, designed mostly around the objective of experiencing life in three tribes that encompassed the different bases of livelihood in the Omo Valley: agriculture, agro-pastoralism, and pastoralism. Several people had recommended I visit the pastoral Dassenech, whose territory encompassed Omorate. But public transportation was all but nonexistent and finding a ride from Turmi, as I was gathering, was nearly impossible.

I was walking away from yet another rude encounter with a passing vehicle, when a guy on a stoop of a nearby coffee shop called my name. Startled, I approached and discovered that he was a local guide recommended to me weeks earlier by another guide in Arba Minch. We talked for a couple of hours and I explained to him my interest in spending a few days with a traditionally-pastoral tribe. By evening, I had still not managed to find a ride to Omorate and he kindly invited me to join him and his three Israeli clients on their journey to Kara land the next day.

The 70 km drive the next day took us over two hours on bumpy, unplaned road. Rains the night before had brought much-needed water to the streams and soil, which consequently proved challenging to drive over. We reached Korcho, the first of three Kara villages along the Omo River, mid-morning. The village sits at the edge of a narrow plateau with a spectacular view onto the snaking river below. To the south you can see Kenya, to the west Sudan, and to the north a cotton plantation that a Turkish company is developing.

As soon as I arrived, I met Dunga, a college-educated government-employee who had returned to Korcho – his hometown – to collect the annual tax. Dunga invited me to stay at his family’s house. I walked with him around the village and met his aunt, a widow named Chowli who had two boys (both of whom were gone for a few days with the livestock). I immediately felt at home with Chowli. But before I could settle in, I needed to get permission from the Korcho guide’s association to stay.

Like most of the tribal villages that tourists frequent, Korcho requires a village fee from each visitor. In Korcho, the fee is 200 birr (10 USD), which is equivalent to the average Ethiopian city-dweller’s weekly income. Sadly, this money is not benefiting the community at large; the handful of local “guides” and the chief pocket most of it. I was nervous approaching the guides here for this reason; I knew they must have become used to taking advantage of tourists and their perspective and tolerance for non-standard visitors (i.e. visitors like me who had come not to take photos but to sit and stay awhile) would have been compromised.

Indeed, when I first explained myself to the head guide and asked to stay, he was insistent that I pay 3000 birr (150 USD) for four nights. This was an obscene amount of money to hand over to a bunch of young men with large egos who were doing me absolutely no service. Had I had such a large sum of money with me, I would have rather given it all directly to the woman who would be hosting me. She would use the money to feed her family and rebuild her house, whereas these boys would likely use it to purchase alcohol at the village tavern. I explained to him that I could not pay such a high price and he arrogantly told me that I could leave if I didn’t have the money.

I returned broken-hearted to the car I had come in. Just before we were ready to go, I approached the head guide one last time and pleaded with him to let me stay. Tears welled in my eyes, which must have softened him up because he finally agreed to let me “as a researcher”. Elated, I said goodbye to my new Israeli friends and practically skipped back to Chowli’s hut.

The five days I spent with Chowli and her family in Korcho were fascinating. This was the first village where tourism played a major role in people’s daily lives and I was excited to witness the process from the other side of the fence. Within the first two hours of settling in with Chowli, we were summoned to the parking lot to entertain a special group of visitors. The women adorned me with jewelry and white paint and we walked together to the clearing where six National Geographic vehicles had just pulled in. The head guide explained to the villagers gathered that this VIP group had paid in advance and that they would all make 100 birr at the end of their visit if they posed for photographs and showcased traditional Kara dances.

Two dozen mostly elderly White Americans emerged from the vehicles with Nikon cameras draped around their necks and beige safari hats on their heads. And just like that they began snapping pictures right and left. Standing between Chowli and her friend Nameli, I really felt for the first time the blatant objectification that this type of photo-tourism brings. A couple of women approached me and asked what on earth I was doing here, how did I manage to live with these people, and was my mother okay with it? I am sure these women were well-intentioned and just naively curious. But to me their questions reflected a deeply supremacist Western mindset, which holds that tribes like the Kara should be engaged with only for their aesthetic value. For these women, and I’m sure for most tourists who pass through, the thought of actually having a conversation with a villager, let alone spending the night with one, was unthinkable and possibly dangerous. As if the people of Korcho don’t eat, play, sleep, poop, and laugh like the rest of humankind…

Aside from the three hours worth of tourist exchanges in the morning, daily life in Korcho was not so different from life in Girshe or Umbli. I would rise with the sun, drink tea made of coffee shells with the neighbors, eat paldo (sorghum porridge with peas, which I enjoyed so much it became my Kara nickname), go to the farm with Chowli to weed, return to the hut in time to see some European and Chinese tourists wander through, eat paldo again, sit and paint in the gappa (outdoor shelter) while Chowli ground flour, made jewellery, and preformed other household tasks, fetch water from the river in the late afternoon, watch the sun set over Sudan, bathe, eat paldo, and then lie and sing songs with the children under a blanket of stars.

After two days, the children finally stopped asking me to take pictures of them. But I felt the impact of tourism and NGO interventions in many other ways. Women would occasionally come up to me and ask if I had an extra t-shirt to give them. This puzzled me, since it has never been their custom to wear Western clothes. Tourists come all the time with plastic toys, second-hand clothes, and monetary donations. It’s a strange duality, since they are visiting to appreciate and document a beautiful and (until recently) self-sufficient society. What they may or may not realize is that they then undermine this self-sufficiency and cultural beauty by bringing unnecessary clothing, plastic junk for the children to fight over, and money. How can you come claiming to have respect for a society like the Kara when deep-down you think they require your charity?

Over the past ten years, at least half-a-dozen NGOs and several international government agencies have entered Korcho, promising to equip the villagers with various infrastructure and services. Why have the Kara – a minority tribe of no more than 1500 people – received so much more aid than other tribes in the Omo Valley? It’s not that they are any more disadvantaged or negatively impacted by development schemes along the Omo River than the Dassanech, Nyangatom, or Mursi are. They also are no less represented by the government (that is to say, the government doesn’t seem to represent any of the pastoralist tribes). I would argue that exposure from tourism has a huge impact on the number of foreign aid investments. The Kara are colorful: they paint white designs all over their bodies, wear bright jewellery, and perform beautiful songs and dances. I believe they receive so much outside aid because of their aesthetic infamy and because they lack basic services that the government would normally be obligated to provide a community.

It is true that the Kara have been historically marginalized by the government and, despite paying taxes, have seen few government initiatives to equip their villages with basic infrastructure and services. Yes, the government built a road to Korcho in 2000, which has meant that more money via tourism enters their community (albeit unequally distributed). It also funded a health post for several years, which provided medicine and emergency care; but that eventually closed due to lack of funding. Pressure from outside organizations finally forced the government to build a primary school in Korcho, which has increased the rate of attendance from 1% to maybe 25% (on a good day). But from the perspective of the government, investing in Korcho makes no longterm sense. It sees minority societies like the Kara as putting unnecessary strain on public resources and would rather have them relocate to a more centralized town like Turmi, where public services are already in place.

So NGOs have begun to assume the role of the government in bringing infrastructure like wells, generators, and materials to Kara villages. The problem is that these NGOs are either not following through with their projects or they are developing them in a way that the community can’t sustain, themselves. This – along with tourist donations – is creating patterns of dependency in a society that was for so long autonomous and self-sufficient. When you never have to leave your village to earn a livelihood, it makes sense that you would start to feel entitled to ask for things like t-shirts, pencils, and cellphones instead of working to purchase them yourself.

I am not trying to say that the Kara have become lazy. Quite the opposite: they have to work much harder now than they ever had to produce enough food, keep their livestock healthy, and provide shelter for their growing families in the face of large-scale development. The Turkish-owned cotton plantation being developed upriver stole 10,000 hectares of land from the Kara. This project has substantially decreased Kara’s access to grazing land and forests (a source of game, medicine, firewood, and lumber) and is polluting the Omo River, their only source of drinking water. The construction of the Gibe Dam has decreased annual flooding, which the Kara traditionally relied on to nourish their crops along the river. In recent years, they have had to begin a second growing season on the plateau to ensure their continued food security. As pastureland becomes increasingly degraded by development and climate change, the Kara will become evermore dependent on agriculture and alternative sources of livelihood.

Housing typologies will also change, as a result of decreased access to natural resources. Grass, the traditional roofing material, is difficult to gather nowadays in large-enough quantities. Wood, as well, is proving hard to find in the sizes and quantities that are necessary. Towards the end of my stay, Chowli told me that she would soon need to rebuilt her house: it had been several years since she constructed her current one and the roof was beginning to leak. As soon as she had enough money, she would rebuilt, reusing the wood posts and walls, but purchasing corrugated iron sheeting to use for the roof. Not only would she have to buy the material, she would also have to pay someone to transport it to Korcho and install it (a total cost of 4000 birr, or 200 USD). What I paid her at the end of my stay would cover the material costs of this project.

The Kara will be forced to adapt to many physical and social changes over the next couple decades. Among these changes will be an ever-increasing level of tourism and NGO involvement. If the Kara are to stay on their land and not succumb to government pressure to integrate into mainstream society, they will need to take a much more active role in directing outside involvement. Money entering the community will need to be distributed more equitably and infrastructure projects need to be designed in a way that encourages self-sufficiency and resilience. Outside involvement can have a positive impact on minority groups like the Kara, but only if it comes from a place of respect and not paternalism.

A Hamar Utopia?

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Getting out to Hamar land was almost too easy. A guide in Arba Minch had given me the name of a family to stay with in a village called Umbli, 20 km from Dimeka. I took a 2.5 hour minibus ride south from Jinka. The landscape changed dramatically over the course of the journey. Forested hills, made lush by the recent rains, turned into dry expanses of terrain, marked intermittently by ragged trees and gigantic boulders.

I was worried that I wouldn’t find a motorbike in Dimeka to take me out to Umbli. But within the span of 5 minutes, a local guide approached me, I told him my mission, he called over his friend with a bike, I negotiated a price that was one third of what he originally asked for (still twice what a local would pay), and I was off down the dirt road with my white scarf fluttering behind me.

My driver dropped me off at a fork in the road. I had been expecting an actual village with round huts like the ones in Mursi land. But all I saw were fields of scrub-brush and paths of cracked clay winding between them. Children emerged and walked me in the direction of Sago’s house, the head of the family I hoped to stay with. After about half a kilometer I sighted the first two thatched roofs of “Umbli”. I approached the clearing, where two women were sifting through sorghum grain and a half-dozen children were playing under a tamarind tree. A wave of anxiety hit me: this was the first time in all my nine months of visiting villages that I was all alone at the start to introduce myself and ask to stay.

The women brought out several animal skins and arranged them artistically underneath the tree for me to sit on. I mentioned the man who had given me their contact and they smiled in recognition. Not knowing what else to do or say, I opened my sketchbooks and started showing them past drawings. Everyone gathered around me and I felt like a kindergarten teacher reading from a picture book. Like the Ari’s, the Hamar’s language is Omotic-based. So occasionally I would throw out the Ari word for something in my drawing like “ono” (house) or “waki” (cow). The children found my attempts at communication quite comical.

I realized, ultimately that the women were waiting for Sago to formally welcome me to stay with them. He came some time later and we lounged around for the afternoon, exchanging basic phrases in Ahmaric and Hamar. I learned through interpretation that the two women who were busying themselves with food prep and water collection were Sago’s wives, Duka and Bur. He had a total of 11 children, with one more on the way, and two grandchildren. When I asked him how old he was, he proudly signed, “30!” I had to hold back laughter. I knew he must be at least 45; most Hamar have no records of their date of birth.

In the evening, Sago walked me one kilometer east to another hut that was enclosed by a scrub-brush fence. Duka was there corralling the goats for the night. I realized that this was her house. In Hamar society, it is common for a man to have two wives. He builds each wife a home with some distance between them, and in this way expands his territory for grazing and cultivation. Because the Hamar are a majority tribe in the Omo Valley, their territory is substantial and at less risk of attack. Families are not clustered in compact settlements, rather they are sprawled across the valley in isolated homesteads. When the community gathers, they chose a centrally located site that all families can walk to.

I was lucky enough to witness the largest community gathering of the year. The next day, Sago and I walked along the dry riverbed, which passes by Bur’s house, to a neighbor’s. There, men and women sat in separate circles, sharing parsi (fermented maize beer) and coating each other’s hair with red clay and oil. I could sense that this was preparation for a much bigger event to come, but having had no opportunity to do background research on the Hamar, I was naive as to what it could be.

At one point it started storming and more than twenty of us squeezed inside this tiny hut, of no more than 10 feet (3.3 m) in diameter. I was wedged in, chest-to-chest with a nursing mother who jokingly pushed her babe to my breast. She reached for my sports bra (I was wearing a bra and sarong to cover my lower half) and motioned for me to take it off. Several others around us nodded in approval so I removed my bra. Tragically, the baby didn’t take well to my nipple when he realized it was dry.

Life went on as usual the next day: Sago and the boys plowed and seeded the fields, Bur had disappeared, I assumed out to tend the cattle, and Duka stayed at Bur’s house to process cereals. Evening time approached and with it the distant sounds of horns. Sago arose from his afternoon nap and walked with me to a field just beyond Duka’s house. There, a couple hundred people were gathering, clad in leather skirts and adorned with beaded jewellery from head to toe. Women were dancing in the center of the open space, men were sitting on the fringes drinking parsi, and children glided between them excitedly. The evening progressed. People did not seem surprised to see me, although they were curious about why I wasn’t taking pictures.

When people began to cluster themselves in a central area, I took a seat next to the only young woman my age who was not dancing. She seemed a bit uneasy and I soon discovered why. Young men were passing around supple sticks and the young women were gathering, preparing to dance before them. Total chaos ensued: women danced in front of men, some very exuberantly, and received whiplashes in return. The young woman I had sat next to soon emerged from the mosh-pit with bloody gashes on her previously smooth back. Although she seemed to not enjoy it, other women were: some even went as far as demanding to be whipped again, to ensure that their wounds would scar. The scars, I assumed, represented a woman’s strength and courage. Later, I learned that they also symbolized her worthiness to be loved by her husband. All their families sat and watched the show merrily, passing around gourds overflowing with parsi.

The celebrations, called Ukuli Bula, lasted the three remaining days I was there. Adults did not sleep. In the evening, Duka would cook me and the children sorghum porridge with moringa leaves and then leave me as the informal babysitter to go drink parsi with the other women from around Umbli. She would reappear at sunrise to wake us up and the daily routine – cooking, herding, and fetching water – would continue.

On the second day of the festival, I witnessed the bull-jumping, where the strongest young men greased their bodies with butter and wrestled eight bulls into a line. A teenage boy then sprinted and leaped across the bulls’ backs several times: this was his right of passage into manhood.

I realized on my last day in Umbli that I had not seen the very pregnant Bur since she had disappeared three days earlier. My questions about her disappearance went unanswered and I deduced that she must have left to deliver her baby in isolation (most Hamar women still uphold the practice of giving birth on their own, despite outside doctors’ encouragements to travel to clinics in nearby towns). I was sad that I would not see her or meet her newborn baby.

On my fifth day, a hung-over and exhausted Sago emerged from his merrymaking to walk me back to Dimeka. It felt weird to be back in “modern” society with this man. We sat and had a beer and he picked at the injera I ordered, obviously partial to the bland porridge he eats three times a day at home. Despite his patriarchal nature and habit of taking long naps while his wives worked beside him, I had come to really love this man and I wiped away tears as I said my goodbyes.

Looking back, there were many moments during my stay where I felt like I was witnessing what life must have looked like 1000 years ago. While it is true that the Hamar have not changed their traditions much since their conception as a people, I had to shake myself awake from this fantasy. In my writing, I have repeatedly tried to express the folly of romanticizing indigenous cultures as “untouched” and “traditional”. In my post “The World Until Yesterday: Revisiting the Discourse on Indigeneity and Its Implications in the Omo Valley”, I wrote that, “Just because an indigenous society hasn’t industrialized does not mean it has remained stagnant since the Stone Age… Their genes, cultures, and behaviors have continued to evolve to the present.” At first glance, the Hamar seem totally removed from the mainstream society that encapsulates them. Aside from the beads, salt, cotton fabrics, metal pots, cutlery, and occasional cellphone that they get source from Dimeka, everything they own they make themselves.

But they are and will continue adapting, as natural resources become scarcer, more tourists visit, and companies claim portions of their land to develop. While the cultural disintegration of the Hamar would be tragic in many ways (most of which are aesthetic), it would likely be seen as a success to many human rights workers who criticize their inhumane and oppressive practices of polygamy, female whipping, isolation during childbirth, infanticide, etc. But does the ceasure of these practices also have to coincide with the complete destruction of the Hamar’s way of life? I don’t think it does.

There are many who believe that the Hamar’s traditional forms of livelihood are slated to disappear – and with it their unique (and questionable) cultural practices. All I’ll say is this: like everyone else, their cultures and behaviors will continue to evolve; they will have to or they will not survive. I just hope it happens in a way that gives all Hamar people (men and women) a voice in the process.